Whitesided Longnose Snake

 The newest "smaller snake" that I have here... Whitesided or Calico Longnose snake male. It's too bad the albino female is no longer around, wouldve made for a great project. Hopefully I can get some hets on the ground next year, looking for LTC adult female Longnose if anyone knows where any are.



Leucistic Western Hognose

Since I don't have a Hognose snake page, I'll put this here.

Leucistic Hognose snake


SNOW Longnose Snakes?!

Here is an Anery Longnose snake.




Albino Longnose Snake

Can I get a "No freakin' way dude!"?

Adult female albino Longnose snake.




Albino Scarlet Snakes


It is true, here at albinomilksnake.com we recently added a wildcaught breeding pair of albino Florida Scarlet snakes to the collection.




Albino Prairie Ringneck Snake

Found in September 2014.

Only known albino prairie ringneck snake in captivity.




Albino Southern Ringneck Snake

Found in Sarasota, FL in June 2014.

Only known albino southern ringneck snake in captivity.




Albino brown snake?!

Thanks to Scott Felzer for the heads up, in October 2013 I lucked into an albino brown snake project, including a normal from the same area.







Ringneck Snake caresheet

Pics by me (In order from top to bottom)

San Bernardino Ringneck Snake eating pinky

Albino northern ringneck snake

Northern Ringneck Snake eating Salamander




Ringneck Snakes are fairly small snakes, some sub-species grow to be a little over 2 feet and some grow to nearly 3 but most stay relatively small. Most adults average 15 to 20 inches in length, Regal's average 20 to 30(record is 38.. possibly 42", and I've heard of a 48"). You can keep them in something really small but it is better to have them in an area that they can move around in. A 10 Gallon aquarium is good for a colony of small ringneck snakes (Southerns do okay like this)... I've kept ringnecks together this way many times and if you make sure there's plenty food available there won't be many problems. Since regal ringneck snakes eat other snakes I'd advise only keeping males and females together for breeding.

The enclosure needs to have a lot of hiding spots, ringnecks are very shy and nervous creatures in captivity and they need to feel secure. I recommend for one side of the tank to have a nice pile of flat rocks(which all of the snakes can fit under at the same time)and some pieces of wood/bark. On another side you can put a waterbowl, some branches, maybe a nice big flat rock or a little rock cave to hide in. Ringnecks are a burrowing snake, they like to go underground in hot weather, I've used everything possible at one point or another for a substrate for these guys. Sometimes I'd use soil, sometimes moss, repti-bark from the pet store, aspen bedding, newspaper, paper towels, gravel, ringnecks prefer a moist environment but if you keep them moist they'll develop blisters so you'll have to make sure there's a dry area in the enclosure as well as a moist area. For hide boxes I used to use those small plastic tupperware containers from wal mart, costs probably 3 bucks for a couple of them and there's various sizes, you can cut out a hole in the top part and put moistened moss inside. Place the lid on the container but don't snap it shut, and bury it up to the lid in the substrate, works for a nice little moist retreat. They can go here if it gets too dry everywhere else in the enclosure.

Ringneck Snakes are active night and day but mostly night. Ringnecks aren't exactly basking snakes but they have been known to hide under rocks which get warmth from the sun. It is up to you if you want a light over the tank, snakes can see just fine in the dark.
You definitely need a nice good lid so there are no escapees. Ringnecks are masters of escape. I've had them escape from all sorts of enclosures, I found the best enclosure to keep a ringneck in would have to be the kritter keeper cage from pet co, because it has air holes and there's various sizes of them. But I would avoid the ones with the air holes on the tank as the snakes could squeeze right through them easily. A couple years ago I was keeping 3 ringnecks together in a 10 gallon tank with a slide-in screen lid, I thought it was escape-proof. A month into keeping the snakes in that tank one of them tried to escape and didn't quite make it, I looked in and just saw a little snake's body hanging from the lid. That snake died trying to get out, within the next 2 weeks the remaining 2 snakes in the enclosure( 1 of which was albino, the other was a normal the albino was found with) managed to successfully find their way out.

Ringneck Snakes need a temperature in their tank of about 75 to 85 degrees. It's nice if you can give them a hot side and a cool side, I've had success with heat pads underneath one side or a heat lamp over top of one side. Regals need warmer temperatures when fed snakes so they can digest properly. 80-86 degrees for them.


All animals need food, so do Ringneck Snakes, they eat a nice variety of animals including worms, salamanders, snakes, lizards/skinks, ants/ant eggs, small fish, small frogs and even mice. It is best to feed them every 2 or 3 days for babies and every 4 days to a week for adults. Snakes that eat only snakes are better off only fed once every 2-3 weeks depending on the meal size, and make sure the snake has a hot area it can digest the food in.

Ringneck Snakes can be constrictors but technically they don't constrict prey to kill it. Bigger ones will swing a loop around the prey to hold it down and chew on it till it dies and then proceed it swallow it. Ringnecks have venomous properties in their saliva which helps to kill prey faster, it has no effect what-so-ever on humans. And even if it did, they usually don't bite. I've seen pictures of ringnecks full-on constricting lizards so I know it occurs. 

Feeding Ringneck Snakes may defintitely be a problem, some specimens will refuse food for a long period of time, depending on the sub-species in question, there are all foods that are relished by each. Northern ringneck snakes(D.p.edwardsii) in my experience will not refuse a slimy or red backed salamander, Southern ringneck snakes(D.p.punctatus) in my experience have the biggest appetite of all the sub-species. I've had them eat guppies or rosy reds, even out of a water bowl, more than once I've seen a southern ringneck snake dive into the water bowl and fish around until it grabbed one. Have also had specimens accept small garter snakes, tree frogs, anoles, skinks, worms and pinky mice scented with frog slime. The western sub-species like NorthWestern(D.p.occidentalis), San Bernardino(D.p.modestus), Coral-Bellied(D.p.pulchellus), San Diego(D.p.simlis), Monterey(D.p.vandenburgii) and Pacific(D.p.amabilis) usually aim their prey preference more towards salamanders and lizards but will also take snakes. There are pictures online of a coral bellied ringneck swallowing a young mountain kingsnake in the wild. Regal ringneck snakes are notorious reptile eaters, I've attempted to get specimens of all sizes to feed on other prey such as worms, fish, and salamanders but they never went for them. Regals are usually easily conditioned to feed on mice, there's a specimen in captivity in AZ that has been feeding on unscented pinky mice for the past 15 years. 

The only way you'll succeed with a ringneck snake is if you offer it the prey items that it wants, a bowl of guppies in the enclosure might work, or a little salamander or skink running around might work... Do your research and find out what sub-species you have then you'll be one step closer to successfully keeping it.


Ringneck Snakes hibernate around the end of November. They will not bury in the ground, they will go in deep crevices or tunnels and stay there until it warms up. The best way to hibernate(brumate)your snake is to stop feeding it for 2 weeks, give it a nice little bath in warm water and then put it back in the tank. Give the snakes alot of hiding spaces and a waterbowl for drinking and set the tank in a nice cool place. Ideal temperatures are 50 to 60 degrees. This is not exactly hibernation, it is more of a resting time for them. It gives them a time to not eat, shed, slow down and rest. Even after you set them to "hibernation" they will still move around just very slowly.
Southern Ringneck Snakes most likely won't hibernate. Alot of areas in which they are found don't get cold so they don't need to go through hibernation. Some Ringnecks will stop eating around winter because they know it's time to hibernate, that could be a frustrating thing.


Ringnecks emerge from their resting period in late March or Early April. Soon after emerging they mate. Eggs are laid through May, June and July under rocks, in logs, mainly under objects that are nice and humid and collect good heat. Ringnecks lay from 2 to 10 eggs with the normal being 4 or 5. There are some places where Ringnecks communal nest, meaning females lay their eggs in the same area year after year with other females. Ringnecks are sexually mature at an age of 3 years at which they are about 10 inches in length. Babies hatch 50 to 80 days later at a length of about 3 to 8 inches. 



An albino ringneck snake? Yes they do exist, there have been many documented items for albino ringneck snakes, the color of an amelanistic(albino) ringneck snake varies between the sub-species, some of them, like the southern ringneck snake has a red belly with pink spots, and some of them like the northern ringneck snakes, have pink or yellow bellies.

If you have an albino ringneck snake for me, or any other kind of morph/variation that seems odd (also looking for plain old regal ringneck snakes), contact me at mikefedzen@yahoo.com pictures please...

Last Thoughts

Ringneck snakes are only good for the experienced keeper, and most experienced keepers in the hobby wouldn't look twice at them because they are far from the easiest snake to keep. I spent years working with ringneck snakes but have since moved on, I would keep them again if I could get my hands on an albino or a pair of regals, but it's not easy to find those for sale.